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We like to inform our customers in a simple way about our raw materials and have chosen to do this through using the following simple coding system.
A large selection of products that Aromantic stock is based on entirely natural ingredients. However, as soon as we begin to consider the different raw materials for cosmetics, e.g. natural raw materials that have been treated or extracted with substances not found in the original product, it becomes more difficult to define these as 'natural'. So, some of our products, while having a natural origin, will fall into this latter category. Because we like to keep things clear and simple for our customers, we have devised the following coding and classification system:
A = Raw materials of Animal Origin produced with the help of
animals but not connected with the taking of animal life e.g. Beeswax.
N = All Natural Raw Materials, extracted through the use of
natural methods such as distillation, pressing, drying, yeasting,
cooling, oil extraction and CO2 extraction. Examples of these would
be Essential Oils, Cold pressed Vegetable Oils, etc.
NK = Natural Raw Materials Extracted with the help of chemicals
such as solvents which are not found in the natural raw material,
e.g. Jasmine Absolute, Rose de Mai Absolute.
NB = Natural Raw Materials Treated in order to access other
properties of the raw material e.g. the conversion of Palm Oil into
MF Emulsifier.
NS = Natural Raw Materials Treated & Combined with chemicals/synthetic
raw materials, e.g. the conversion of Coconut Butter to an active
washing ingredient such as the Detergent Alpha or conversion of Guar
Flour to cosmetic Guar Gum Powder.
S = Synthetic Raw Materials, factory produced. Original raw
materials may be natural or by-products of the petroleum industry,
e.g. Carbamide.
NI = Simulated Natural Raw Materials replicate natural raw
materials but are synthetically produced, e.g. Simulated Natural
Vitamin E.
We have attempted to classify our raw materials based on our understanding of them at present. To find out more information about the raw materials we stock, as well as the types of materials to avoid, see Aromantic's Education Pack 2.
AHA-Fruit Acids
(See Natural Fruit
AHA)
Anti-Acne Active Formula
INCI: Copaifera officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) Resin, Carapa guaianensis Seed Oil,
Euterpe oleraca Fruit Oil. (N)
Aromantic’s new Anti-Acne Active Formula was especially developed
to improve the health of problem and acne-prone skin, reducing the
acne-forming process. Produced in partnership with small communities
of the South American Rain Forest, this unique, 100% natural blend
of Acai Oil, Andiroba Oil and Copaiba Balsam - all rich in natural
antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, anti-seborrheic and
anti-acne active components, such beta-caryophylene, flavonoids and
limmonoids. The synergistic effect of these actives results in excellent
cosmetic effectiveness.
Use - Add 1.5% Anti-Acne Active Formula to Toners, Face Masks,
Wipes, Creams, Lotions, Cleansers, Soaps, Make-up and Serums for the
properties mentioned in paragraph above.
In-depth look at the active components of the ingredients…
Acai INCI: Euterpe oleraca
Acai pulp oil is rich in:
These are powerful antioxidants that provide some protection against
environmental damage to the skin, provide action against free radical
damage during the inflammatory process and promote skin benefits such
as moisture retention and regeneration of the skin.
Andiroba INCI: Carapa guianensis
Andiroba contains:
Copaiba INCI: Copaiba officinalis or Copaiba balsam
Testing of the Anti-Acne Active Formula
In vivo effectiveness
The effectiveness (at a dosage of 1.5%) of the Anti-Acne Active Formula
has been demonstrated on volunteers.
What has been achieved during the testing?
Reduction of the Propionibacterium acnes, otherwise known as the reduction
of comedolytic activity
Reduction of seborrheic activity
Cosmetic effectiveness
Comedolytic activity
Objective: evaluate the decrease of comedolytic activity
Volunteers: 20 people, both sexes
Period: 56 days (applied twice daily)
Conclusion: The comedolytic activity decreased by 72% after 56 days.
Seborrheic activity
Objective: evaluate the decrease of seborrheic activity after 42 days
Volunteers: 10 people, both sexes
Period: 42 days (applied twice daily)
Conclusion: The Cream containing 1.5% of the Formula reduced the evolution
of “sebum” quantity by 70% after 42 days.
Cosmetic effectiveness
Oily skin: Reduced in 19 volunteers out of 20 (95% reduction)
Toxicological data – Skin Tolerance
Objective: to prove the absence of the potential primary skin irritation
accumulated skin irritation and skin sensitisation.
Volunteers: 50 people (both sexes, aged from 18 to 60 years old, with
different phototypes).
Results for Primary and Accumulated skin irritation as well as Skin
Sensitisation:
After the period of study, none of the volunteers presented significant
cutaneous reaction in any of these categories.
Aosaine
INCI Name: Hydrolysed ulva lactuca extract (NK)
Protects collagen and elastin from degradation helping to prevent wrinkles and skin ageing. Aosaine optimises cellular respiration and stimulates collagen production in the skin. It also increases protein synthesis and cell regeneration. Add to products in water suspension (under 40°C). Recommended use 0.4%
Arctic Blackcurrant Seed CO2 Extract
INCI: Ribes nigrum (ORG N)
A unique source of GLA
The Seed Oil of the Arctic-harvested Blackcurrant Ribes nigrum, is a versatile ingredient lending itself to strong claim substantiations both in personal care, dietary supplements and functional food use. Its balanced combination of rare Gamma-Linolenic Acid and Stearidonic Acid make it the best choice when looking for a natural source of Essential Fatty Acids in their most active form.
Blackcurrant Seed is unusual, in that it contains these two Fatty Acids which are important in human metabolism but which are rarely found in the normal diet. For this reason, Blackcurrant Oil has been developed as a nutritional supplement and cosmetic ingredient. The yield of the Seed is too low for it to be viable as a stand-alone farm crop, so the Oil is obtained from the fruit residue, which remains after the juice has been extracted as a by-product.
Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA) is an active Omega 6 Fatty Acid that is essential for healthy skin. It is needed to build the structure of cell membranes, but also to produce eicosanoids, local hormones regulating a wide array of biochemical reactions in skin cells. Stearidonic Acid (SDA) is the Omega 3 series equivalent for Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA). Stearidonic Acid has a high metabolic activity in the human body, forming longer chain fatty acids of the Omega 3 family, precursors of anti-inflammatory local hormones.
The balance of Omega 3 and Omega-6 is pivotal in keeping skin healthy. Blackcurrant (Ribes nigrum) Seed Oil contains GLA and SDA in a 4:1 ratio. It is the only plant Oil containing Omega 6 and Omega 3 Fatty Acids in an optimal physiological ratio. A number of clinical studies have shown Blackcurrant Seed Oil’s efficacy in…
Precautions
Pregnant women, nursing mothers and children should avoid the use of
Blackcurrant Oil unless a physician recommends it.
Because of possible antithrombotic activity, those with haemophilia
and those taking warfarin (Coumadin) should use Blackcurrant Oil with
caution.
Due to the high content of Omega 3 it is a very active and nourishing oil but without CO2 extraction it would go rancid within 4-6 months. By using liquid CO2 gas on the material the shelf life is prolonged to around 2 years. Adding Rosemary CO2 extract helps to keep the shelf life.
Technical dataRaw material - Ribes
nigrum – Blackcurrant Seeds
INCI Name - Ribes
nigrum
Extraction - Produced
with Supercritical CO2 Extraction. No solvent residues. No inorganic
salts. No heavy metals. Aseptic extraction process.
Fatty Acid Content
48 – 50% Linoleic Acid – Duo
unsaturated fatty acid (Omega 6)
15 – 20% Gamma-Linolenic Acid – (GLA)
12 – 14% Alpha-Linolenic Acid – Polyunsaturated fatty acids
(Omega 3)
2 – 4% Stearidonic Acid
0.15% Tocotrienols.
Arctic Cranberry Seed Oil CO2 Extract
INCI: Oxycoccus palustris(N)
Above the Arctic Circle of Scandinavia, it may be cold but it is far from lifeless. The last wilderness of Europe is teeming with life: the clean rivers, forests and marshlands offer a resort for a plentiful flora, consisting of rarities not found anywhere else. The climate of the North has forced nature to adapt. Long, cold winters and short but intense summers create special requirements for all life. Arctic plants, growing under the never setting midnight sun, have adapted breeding varieties with unique properties and a high concentration of bioactive compounds. Arctic berries are an exciting new source of highly functional active ingredients, which include the seed oils of wild harvested berries. For example, the special lipid extracts from Arctic Cranberries is an excellent source of essential fatty acids perfect for skin treatment as well as tocopherols and tocotrienols which are powerful antioxidants able to counter the effects of ageing. Cranberry juice is already well known for its health benefits but the use of the seeds is a more recent development.
Growing in the Arctic marshlands, Arctic Cranberry (Vaccinium oxycoccos, Oxycoccus palustris) accumulates tocotrienols in seeds. In addition, the seed oil contains almost exclusively essential fatty acids, Linoleic (Omega 6) and Alpha-Linolenic Acids (Omega 3).
Tocotrienols are a sub-group of Vitamin E. They differ from the better known Tocopherols by their unsaturated side-chain. This structural difference makes Tocotrienols move faster in cell membranes and results in higher anti-oxidant and radical scavenging activity.
Skin seems to have specific needs for tocotrienols to fight against different stresses imposed by rough environments. In fact, it has the highest concentrations of tocotrienols in the human body. Quick moving tocotrienols gives the skin the best protection against free radicals. Cranberry Seed Oil provides essential fatty acids and tocotrienols, offering a three-in-one kit for nourishing, moisturising and protecting the skin in the most natural way. It's good to use on the face and in body oils, especially in anti-wrinkle blends, creams and lotions and as a dietary supplement.
Technical data...Raw material - Oxycoccus
palustris (Vaccinium oxycoccos) / Arctic
Cranberry Seeds
INCI Name - Oxycoccus
palustris
Extraction - Produced
with Supercritical CO2 Extraction. No solvent residues. No inorganic salts.
No heavy metals. Aseptic extraction process.
Fatty Acid Content
20 – 23% Oleic Acid - Mono unsaturated fatty acid (Omega 9)
38 – 40% Linoleic Acid – Duo unsaturated fatty acid (Omega
6)
33 – 34% Alpha Linolenic Acid – Poly unsaturated fatty
acid (Omega 3)
0.19% Tocotrienols.
We now stock alcohol-based Natural Aromas produced from organic raw materials, controlled by EcoCert. These are great fragrances for all water-based products such as Creams, Lotions, Gels, Soaps and Shampoos. You can also use them in fat-based products such as Lip Balms and Lip Glosses. When you use these fat-based products they work best with Beeswax in the recipe. (The results can vary in oil-only products.) They open up exciting new possibilities for Lip products and also give your products a wonderful taste. The Aromas can also be used in foods such as sweets, deserts, puddings, ice creams and drinks. Alcohol content - 15%. Dosage: 0.5-1%.
Organic Aromas we stock:
Beta Detergent
INCI Name: Betaine (NS)
Betaine occurs naturally in sugar beet but is produced from coconut butter and then transformed into a Detergent with the help of chemicals. Betaine 30% is an amphoteric Detergent, which is very gentle on the skin. It is often used in combination with other Detergents to make them milder and it produces a good foam. Fine pores and stable. Betaine 30% is used for Hair and Body Cleansing products at a strength of 6-8%. Combined with Lauryl Sulphate Betaine 30% can be thickened with salt. Its pH value is 6-7 and its active cleansing agent content is 50%. Environmental considerations: 98% biodegradable. Approved by the Swedish Environmental Protection Agency for sale under the label 'Good Environmental Choice'.
Betaine
INCI: Trimethylglycine (N)
NB This is not the same product as our Beta Detergent which is derived from Coconut Oil.
The Versatile Active Raw Material...
Betaine, chemically known as trimethylglycine, is a completely natural, edible compound found in products such as sugar beet, spinach and broccoli, and in some crustacean such as shrimps. Our Betaine is industrially produced in Scandinavia, from sugar beet molasses using unique chromatographic separation technology protected by worldwide patents and is a very versatile product. It is excellent for Skin Care, Hair and Dental Care products. Tests show that it has anti-wrinkle efficacy when used at 10% in products. It is water soluble. Dosage from 0.5-10%. Just add the powder to water in the water stage. It can be heated to 80°C. It can also be diluted in a little water and added to the third stage.
Natural Betaine is used in Skin Care formulations as a Moisturiser and Stabiliser for its unique water-binding and cell membrane protectant properties. Because of its clearly perceivable ability to improve skin feel and reduce the stickiness of formulations and increase their spreading properties, Betaine is ideal for a wide range of cosmetic applications.
Betaine also increases the water solubility of active compounds. AHA and antiperspirant formulations can also be buffered by Betaine. Clinical studies have shown that Betaine is able to protect the skin against mechanical and chemical injury.
In surfactant solutions, Betaine acts as a foam modifier and increases the foam volume and stability of SLES and amphoterics, and improves the after-feel of Conditioners.
Betaine in Skin Care (Dosage: Add 0.5-2%)Functions
Functions
Functions
Human Clinical Efficacy Tests
Skin propertiesBio-Energiser
INCI Name: Pelvetia canaliculata laminacia digitata
(NS)
A natural remedy for temporary hair loss. Bio-Energiser is a red-brown liquid made from two brown algae (Pheophycaes) located in the Brehat archipelago in Brittany, France and extracted by an hydroglycolic solvent.
Bisabolol
INCI Name: Bisabolol (N)
Bisabolol is a natural occurring versatile active ingredient for the cosmetic industry. It is the main constituent of chamomile (Matricaria chamomile). Which has been used in traditional medicine in Europe for hundreds of years. The action of Bisabolol in the skin is very well documented.
The most important effects of Bisabolol are:
This makes it the preferred active ingredient for protection of the skin against all kinds of daily stress. Natural Alpha-Bisabolol is colour stable after long storage periods and does not diffuse through plastic containers. Application Dosage: Natural Alpha-Bisabolol is used in cosmetic products such as Ointments, Creams and Lotions because of its compatibility with the skin. Natural Alpha-Bisabolol is an additive in the following Personal Care products:
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Aromantic’s Botanical Glycerol and CO2 Extracts
In 2005, I was talking to a major raw materials provider for the cosmetic industry. They had hundreds of herbal extracts for sale and I was interested in buying a few of them. The very honest salesman was aware that Aromantic has high ethical standards and recommended against buying almost 30% of the products they had listed in their catalogue. He explained that hundreds of herbal extracts sold to cosmetic companies were so diluted to be almost totally ineffective. The cosmetic companies who purchased them were only interested in putting the herbal name on their bottles. Both seller and buyers were well aware of this and I appreciated his honesty. How many people are being misled by this form of bogus marketing by High Street retailers?
Our Botanical Glycerol Extracts
As a consequence of that, we have decided to source Herbal Extracts
in Vegetable-based Glycerine from Provence in France. Most commercial
products use Propylene Glycol, which is not as good.
Aromantic’s Comfrey and Witch Hazel Botanical Extracts are especially made for our supplier in Provence, France from fresh, ecologically grown or wild herbs with Eco Cert certification (The French equivalent to The Soil Association).
70% vegetable Glycerine together with 30% water is used to extract the plant material. This method extracts most of the water and fat-soluble ingredients from the plants. This is therefore a combination product, which has a moisturising effect on the skin as well as the benefit of the herbal properties.
As Glycerine is water-soluble it is very convenient to use in water-based products. Use in Shampoos, Liquid Soaps, Deodorants, Creams, Lotions, Gels, Face Masks, Hair Packs and Toothpastes.
Add the Extract when your recipe is under 40°C or add it directly to cold products. Use at a dosage of 3–6% (3% contains 2% Glycerine and 6% contains 4% Glycerine).
Our Botanical CO2 Extracts
In the cosmetic field, CO2 Extracts are used as bioactive components in Creams, Skin Oils, Body Milks and Lotions, Before and After Sun products, etc. Supercritical CO2 fluid extraction is an established process for the decaffeination of tea and coffee, as well as for hop ingredients, of perfumery and aromatherapy. CO2 Extracts are becoming more and more popular. The intention is to eliminate harmful organic solvents used in the past for the production of lipophilic Botanical Extracts, to avoid environmental pollution and to have a high grade extract composition very close to the natural raw material.
The benefits of CO2 Extraction can be summarised as:Compared to Propylene Glycolic Extracts, the CO2 Extracts are much more pure and in a concentrated form. They are free of any solvent residues and diluting agents and are composed almost exclusively of the raw material's ingredients without any dilution and accordingly can be used in a fairly low dosage. This low dosage means that a high quality, active cosmetic product can be created at a reduced cost.
NB If you choose to use more than one CO2 Extract, know that the Extracts are very concentrated in their effect and it’s not necessary to have more than a total amount of 3% Extract in your product.
Regarding our CO2 Extracts’ concentration, a large amount of raw materials are needed to make just 1 kg of our CO2 Extracts. These are examples of the quantities of raw materials used…
1 Kg Carrot CO2 Extract: 63–77 kg of carrots
1 Kg Calendula CO2 Extract: 7–10 kg of calendula flowers
1 Kg Sea Buckthorn Pulp CO2 Extract: 8-14 kg of raw materials
1 Kg Rosehip Seed CO2 Extract: 13–15 kg of Rosehip seeds (not
Rosehips!)
1 Kg Evening Primrose CO2 Extract: 4.5–5.3 kg of seeds
1 Kg Chamomile CO2 Extract: 10–15 kg of Chamomile flowers
So, as you can see – if you put one our Extracts into your products at the dosages we suggest, you can be sure that the Extract will have a real effect and that it won’t just be on the label for the sake of increasing sales. Your customers will always come back to you if your products contain high quality raw materials with real benefits!
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Botanical CO2 Extracts
Calendula
CO2 Extract
INCI Name: Calendula officinalis Flower Extract (CO2), Simmondsia chinensis
(N)
Calendula has a long tradition in dermatological and cosmetic applications. It’s impossible to distil Calendula petals in order to make Calendula Essential Oil. However, it is well known that Calendula is a powerfully healing ingredient when used as an infusion or a Macerated Oil. The full healing properties and benefits of the bioactive ingredients of Calendula can now be enjoyed with the advance of supercritical CO2 fluid extraction. Recent investigations clearly demonstrated that CO2 extraction produces a high grade, totally natural Extract that can be verified by its topical anti-inflammatory activity in comparison with a hydroalcoholic (70%) Extract of the same raw material.
Calendula Extract is a dark red-brown substance with a waxy consistency but liquid at 40ºC and has a characteristic hay-like smell. 1kg of the CO2 Extract is equal to 17-20kg of the Calendula Flowers.Calendula Extract is used in a 1-2% dosage for its anti-inflammatory and healing properties in:Calendula Extract is excellent to use for: Wounds, Scrapes, Inflammation, Healing wounds by increasing granulation, Dry and sensitive skin, and Increasing the resistance to chemical and mechanical irritations.
It contains: Petacyclic triterpene alcohols and triterpendiol monoesters including 17-25% Faradiol esters esterified mainly with Mystiric and Palmitic Acids. Faradiol esters have a significant anti-inflammatory effects, Sterols, Carotenes, Cuticular waxes.
It does not contain: solvent residues, inorganic salts, heavy
metals, reproducible microorganisms, any antioxidants/preservatives.
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Chamomile
CO2 extract
INCI Name: Matricaria chamomilla, Simmondsia chinensis
(N)
German Chamomile or Chamomilla recutita (also known as Matricaria recutita) is one of the most popular and best-documented herbal raw materials for Skin Care cosmetics with still-increasing demand. Chamomile Extract is a totally natural and pure Extract, with no additives, and is a green-brown colour, which is liquid at 40ºC. The sensitive-flavour ingredients are fully preserved in the CO2 Extract, which gives it a fresh, and more typical Chamomile aroma than the steam distillate.
Chamomile is also used for cosmetic formulations in the form of hydro alcoholic extracts, infusions, steam distillates (Essential Oil) and of CO2 Extracts in cosmetic formulations. Some claim that the method using CO2 supercritical fluid extraction, however, is superior to all of the other options at it retains bioactive ingredients at their optimum and is a ‘whole’ extract in the sense that all of the water-, fat-and alcohol-soluble components remain intact. This natural composition of active ingredients in German Chamomile, which are all contained in the CO2 Extract in their natural distribution exhibit a better efficiency all together than every single component. Thus, an Ointment containing 1% of a CO2 Extract was in some applications as active as a 0.25% Hydrocortisone preparation. In cosmetic formulations the medium dose is 1-3% of the CO2 Extract corresponds to 3-9g of dried Chamomile Flowers in 100g of the end product.
In cosmetics, it is used in a 1-2% dosage in:8-15% Essential Oil, with 10-25% bisabolol and 5-35% bisabolol oxides, 0.8-2.5% matricine (which does not decompose to blue chamazulene), cis- and trans-en-in-dicycloether, spartulenol, herniarine, waxes and non-volatile substances.
It does not contain:Chondrus
Crispus Flakes
INCI Name: Chondrus Crispus (N)
Chondrus Crispus is a bluish red algae of small size (6 to 15 cm) growing just above the low sea level down to about 6 - 7m in depth. It leaves all year round on the rocks at upper tide. On the coast of Brittany, the Chondrus Crispus harvest is made between June and September, by picking the plants by hand or with a rake.
Dosage and applications:Use 1-6% as an Exfoliant in Solid Soaps, Liquid Soaps, Shower Gels and Gels. When in contact with water, Chondrus Crispus flakes will soften to enable a smooth cleansing action.
Actions:Gentle exfoliation - The Soap/Gels with Chondrus Crispus flakes used for massage on the body will liberate the skin from its dead cells, its excess of sebum and its impurities. Consequently, this will stimulate the cell regeneration, because symptomatically, when cells are removed from the surface of the skin, a signal enables the basal layer to regenerate new cells.
The products with Chondrus Crispus Flakes will help activating blood microcirculation, therefore the endothelial metabolism and in the same way, eliminate the toxins, and improve the exchanges, important in the process of reduction of excess weight.
Skin protection - During washing, the polysaccharides of
the Chondrus Crispus will be released and thanks to their ionic character,
they will fix themselves on the proteins of the skin, creating a
protective and hydrating film. This treble action will confer to
the Seaweed Soap, modelling properties for the body helping it to
recover purity, firmness and softness.
Conditioner-Emulsifier
INCI: Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (N)
A new natural raw material that works both as an Emulsifier and a Conditioner in one. It is a cationic fatty acid ester, which binds oil and water. It makes the hair very soft and easy to comb with a Conditioner effect. Produced from vegetable-based Stearic Acid. Works best when 0.5% - 1% Citric or Lactic Acid is added. Natural Skin Care companies in Germany often use this raw material. It is also certified by the German natural skin care organisation, BDEH. Use: 4-5%.
Cosmetic Prebiotic
INCI: Inulin, Alpha-glucan oligo saccharide (N)
Our Skin’s Essential Balance
This is a natural prebiotic, which is derived from the inulin of chicory root. The other part is obtained from natural sugars through a potential enzymatic process. Add 1–4% blended in a little water to Stage 3 of your formulations under 40°C.
Use in:
The existence of the first skin barrier is depending on the survival of the beneficial organisms. Their survival depends on the skin conditions. The upper layer of the skin is in equilibrium with the friendly organisms. The slightest disturbance in these skin conditions endangers the population of friendly and useful organisms. When they are diminished, the harmful bacteria see their chance to grow and to take their place. After a while the friendly organisms have less and less chance to survive. The harmful organisms are winning. They are now determining the skin conditions (increase pH). These conditions are absolutely not in favour of our beneficial bacteria. The friendly bacteria are even more reduced. The first defence barrier is gone. The consequences are:
Pollution
Dust from cigarettes; Vapour; Exhaust gas
Abrupt changes
From hot room to freezing cold; From air conditioned car to the hot
air
Excess sun
Sun acne
Excess cold
Red spots during skiing
Age
Baby: friendly
organisms are not established yet.
Teenager: acne
Pregnant woman: due
to hormonal changes.
Elderly: less
sebum results in less protective organisms.
Stress
Adult acne, cold sores, reaction urticaria.
Malnutrition
Defiance of essential amino acids, vitamins, etc
Use of medicine
Antibiotics destroy friendly organisms.
Use of cosmetics
Preservatives destroys also friendly organisms.
Cosmetics can change the pH of skin.
Cosmetics can be contaminated.
Household chemicals
Powerful detergents remove the beneficial flora. Alkaline soaps change
the pH of skin, leading to destruction of skin flora.
Use of disinfectants
Disinfectants such as benzalkonium chloride or ethanol eliminate all
bacteria. The skin is completely free from bacteria. Each micro-organism
(friendly or harmful) has now the same chance to grow.
The Prebiotic effect
The reality is that the causes that disturb this delicate balance are always present. The first rule is to prevent the disturbance in this barrier. But it is impossible to prevent this all the time. This is especially the case for babies, elderly people and people with sensitive skin. An effective solution is to make the friendly organisms stronger against important changes in the skin balance. The organisms can become stronger by a prebiotic ingredient..
A prebiotic is actually a food supplement for the friendly organism, while the harmful organism can not use the prebiotic as a food supplement. In presence of a prebiotic the friendly bacteria can recover and grow faster than the harmful. Even when the natural balance is disturbed, the prebiotic helps to recover the friendly bacteria. In presence of a prebiotic the friendly bacteria have a serious advantage on the harmful ones.
DHA
INCI Name: Dihydroxyacetone (NI)
A Self-Tanning Agent, DHA is a natural, biodegradable substance derived from the bioconversion of Glycerol extracted from Palm or Rapeseed Oil. Non-genetically modified bacteria are used for the bioconversion process and no chemical solvent used for crystallisation of the substance. DHA is also present in the human body. As a consequence, the risk of allergic response is very low. It has also been demonstrated that chronic applications do not induce any carcinogenic effect.
The use of DHA results in a natural-looking brown or golden hue, to the skin, without exposure to the sun. The induced tan provides photo-protection against UVA radiation. DHA works by interacting with the amino acids only in the surface cells found in the outermost layers of the skin, producing colour changes. As the dead skin cells naturally wear off, the colour gradually fades, just like a genuine sun tan. This does not cause damage to the underlying living layers of skin.
DHA is the ideal ingredient for all cosmetic formulations for bronzing the skin, or for the prolonging of it. DHA can also be used as a supplement in conventional Sun Screen preparations to give an intense tan with less exposure to the sun and to provide UVA protection.
Dosage:To add to your product, dissolve in a little cold water and then add while the product is under 40˚C.
NB The raw material needs to be kept dry, away from light and in the fridge. In addition, the pH of your product containing DHA needs to be under 5.5. Test your product with litmus paper and add Lactic Acid, Citric Acid or Ascorbic Acid to reduce the pH.
D-Panthenol
INCI Name: Panthenol (NI)
D-Panthenol, currently sold and known as provitamin B5, is a clear, colourless, odourless syrup-like liquid. It is very stable when exposed to light and air but becomes unstable when heated above 50ºC. D-Panthenol is water-soluble and is produced chemically with the help of the amino acid Beta-Alanine. It is sold as a 75% solution, which is easy to dose.
There are certain Vitamins, which can be used in Hair, Body and Skin Care products, and D-Panthenol is the Vitamin, which is the most widely used provitamin B5 agent in the cosmetics industry. An effective Moisturiser, Anti-inflammatory, and provitamin B5 (Pantothenic Acid) ingredient, D-Panthenol binds water in the outer layer of the skin, nails, follicles and hair. Because of its physical properties, it is easily incorporated into all normal cosmetics formulations. However, There is not much point in using D-Panthenol, or any other Vitamins, in Body Soaps as these are washed off long before they get a chance to have any effect.
Used in Skin Care products, D-Panthenol:Vitamins are most effective in Hair Packs that are allowed to stay in and work on the hair for an extended length of time. This gives them the chance to attach themselves to the strands of hair and work on them effectively. In contrast to the normal softeners, D-Panthenol is released from the film coating the hair and penetrates the hair slowly. The Panthenol which penetrates the hair is replaced with sebum so the hair does not get heavy and the style lasts longer.
Studies have shown that although single applications of Panthenol have an effect multiple applications give better results. Panthenol is deposited on the hair and also penetrates the hair shaft accumulating in the hair.
Used in Nail Care products, D-Panthenol: can substantially increase the water storage capacity of nail keratin, which in turn improves the flexibility and strength of nails.
D-Panthenol can be used in Skin and Hair Care products in doses of 3 - 6% of the 75% solution D-Panthenol (25% of the solution is water). It is used together with Allantoin and other Vitamins in Regenerative Creams, Lotions and Face Waters.
Also used in Shampoos, Conditioners and Packs. When used in Sun and After Sun products, it gives extra protection from the sun.Echium CO2 Extract
INCI: Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil (N)
Echium has the same GLA content as Evening Primrose Oil. This is a difficult product to source as the large cosmetic companies buy all of the crops. It is considered to be an effective anti-wrinkle agent. Dosage: 1-3 %.
It is produced free of pesticides. Echium is a member of the Borage family and, like Borage it grows quickly, competing well with weeds.
Its Seed Oil is unusual in that it contains a unique ratio of Omega 3 and Omega 6 Fatty Acids. These lipids, previously obtained from other plant sources, have been used for many years in food supplements. Of potential interest for health food applications are the appreciable amounts of Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA) as well as the unusual Polyunsaturated Fatty Acid - Stearidonic Acid (cis 6,9,12,15 - 18:4). Stearidonic Acid is the equivalent position of GLA in the Omega 3 metabolic pathway.
Echium is probably the best agricultural source of this material at the moment. The Seed Oil is used in cosmetic products for its moisturising and anti-inflammatory action. It is also very good for After Sun Care and Anti-wrinkle applications.
Echium Oil contains between 12 and 14% Stearidonic Acid compared to 2% found in the only other available commercial source, Blackcurrant Seed Oil. Stearidonic Acid reduces skin inflammation by suppressing the release of Arachidonic Acid as well as the transformation of the Fatty Acid into proinflammatory eicosanoids.
The recent high level of interest in fish oils by the health food sector has been stimulated by the realisation that the western diet does not contain a sufficient proportion of Omega 3 Fatty Acids. Echium Oil not only contains significant levels of Omega 3 Fatty Acids but also has the tremendous advantage of being derived from a naturally renewable plant source. A combination of these factors has lead to interest in using Echium Oil as a dietary supplement and perhaps in the near future, as an ingredient in functional foods. However, in the short term, it is the Skin Care application of this Oil that is of greater interest. Considerable research has been carried out into the effectiveness of Stearidonic Acid as a systemic treatment of eczema, acne and other skin disorders. Two areas where Echium Oil would seem to have obvious applications are After Care following exposure to the sun and in Anti-wrinkle products.
UV radiation induces the release of Arachidonic Acid from cell membrane Phospholipids, which is converted via a series of steps into inflammatory metabolites such as prostaglandin E2. When applied topically to the skin, Echium Oil inhibited the release of PGE2 by nearly two thirds when compared to untreated tissue.
Work has also been carried out investigating the use of Echium Oil as an anti-wrinkling agent (K Coupland AOCS meeting Florida 1998). A study was performed comparing the effect of a cream containing 5% Echium Oil and a control cream with a non-Stearidonic Acid Vegetable Oil on skin rugosity over a 28-day period. There were ten subjects in each group. The application of Echium Oil resulted is a statistically significant reduction in both the main wrinkles studied and the average skin roughness.
The significant levels of EFA’s and GLA contained in Echium Oil should alone warrant interest, while the recent and ongoing research highlighting Stearidonic Acid’s important role in reducing skin inflammation shows that Echium Oil is unparalleled in its effectiveness for Skin Care applications.
Typical composition of Echium Oil...
Triglycerides of the following fatty acids:
| Linoleic Acid | 15% | Alpha Linolenic Acid | 34% |
| Gamma Linoleic Acid | 10% | Stearidonic Acid | 13% |
Typical Gamma-Linolenic (GLA) and Stearidonic Acid content of plant seed oils…
| Stearidonic acid | Gamma-Linolenic acid | |
| Blackcurrant seed | 2 – 3% | 10 – 15% |
| Borage | 20 – 23% | |
| Evening Primrose | 8 – 11% | |
| Echium | 11 – 14% | 9 – 12% |
Exfoliant Cupuaçu
INCI: Theobroma grandiflorum (ORG N)
These fine bio-scrub particles with a faint smell of chocolate provide a stimulating, yet gentle scrub action with low abrasion on the skin and is therefore gentle enough to use on the face.
From the seeds of the Cupuaçu tree, harvested in a sustainable development managed within the South American Rainforest. Approved by Eco-Cert as an Organic product. The manufacturer works with nature, obtaining its precious resources with care and responsibility. Cupuaçu fruits are oblong, brown, and fuzzy, 20 cm (8 in) long, 1–2 kg (2–4 lb) in weight, and covered with a thick (4–7 mm), with a hard exocarp. Several aspects of Cupuaçu make it interesting. The flowers, for example, are the biggest of the gender. They do not grow on the log, as the Theobromine, but in the branches. Their seeds are industrialised for the production of a Wax Butter with excellent quality, from which an Oil is refined and filtered and which has fantastic properties for the cosmetic industry. Exfoliant ‘Cupuaçu’ has a faint smell of chocolate as the tree is related to Cacao.
Properties
The seeds contain phytosterols, which act at a cellular level by regulating
the lipids on the superficial layer of the skin. Phytosterols are
also used for skin and ulcer treatment by local application, order
to stimulate the scarring process. The structure of the phytosterols
is formed by Beta-Sitosterol, Stigmasterol, and Campesterol. The
Beta-Sitosterol properties are similar to the chemical structure
of cholesterol. It represents more than 70% of unsaponifiable fraction
of the Cupuaçu Butter.
Benefits of Exfoliant ‘Cupuaçu’:
For use in Skin and Body Care
Add 1-10% in your products, according to the desired feel on your skin. It can be applied to face and body daily.
Farnesol
INCI Name: Farnesol (NI)
A bacteria-control Agent, which occurs naturally in a number of Essential Oils, e.g. Palmarosa, Sandalwood, Lemongrass, Tuberose, Petitgrain and Chamomile Oils. Farnesol is a natural sesquiterpene alcohol, effective in inhibiting the growth of nuisance skin bacteria responsible for Body Odour, Acne and Athletes Foot. In simple terms, Farnesol kills the bacteria which makes our sweat smell unpleasant. It does not close off the pores and does not prevent the secretion of sweat. Usually used at a strength of approximately 1% in Deodorants, in combination with 4-5% Lemon-Ester. The effect lasts for 5-6 hours.
Farnesol Dosage guidelines:Ground Luffa
Flakes
INCI Name: Luffa cylindrica (N)
Lipo Luffa is a fibrous material prepared by the controlled grinding of the dried fruit of the plant. It is tan in colour and may contain a small amount of ground seeds, which appear as black particles. Luffa is a mild abrasive that is compatible with anionic, non-ionic, and cationic surfactants.
1 - 2% of Lipo Luffa is added to Solid Soaps, Liquid Soaps, Exfoliating Creams and Lotions, and Gel Cleansing preparations for its mild abrasive qualities. The particle size distribution is carefully controlled to ensure consistent performance and its light colour and low odour make it suitable for the highest quality products. The dried Luffa particles swell in the presence of water. This gives the perception of "mini-sponges" in the product.
Lipo Luffa is insoluble in water, Surfactants, Mineral Oil and most other formulating ingredients.
Honey Moisturiser
INCI Name: Hydroxypropyltrimomium honey (N)
Honey has been used in cosmetics since the beginning of time for its ability to moisturise the skin and hair. However, natural honey, a 75% active solution of disaccharides, is sticky in consistency and its moisturising properties are poor compared to other more commonly used materials such as Glycerine.
Honey Moisturiser is a low viscosity, 50% solids, clear, almost colourless liquid which has a pleasant feel on the skin and hair. It is a quaternised honey with excellent moisture binding properties. It has twice the moisturising ability of Glycerine, a well-known and much used ingredient. Efficacy testing has shown that it has the ability to moisturise the hair, penetrate the endocuticle region and help to repair split ends.
Lemon-Ester
INCI Name: Triethyl Citrate (NS)
This is found naturally in cherries. It reduces the bacteria on the skin by making the skin more acid. The best use in deodorant is to use 4- 5% together with 1% farnesol. NB Never use Essentials Oils that will colour Deodorants such as Mandarin and Orange.
Microfine
Titanium Dioxide
INCI Name: Titanium Dioxide, Dimethicane (N)
It is accepted as a Sun Screen around the world. This is because it is inorganic and has a record of having no adverse reactions to it. This makes it ideal to use for products used on a daily basis. It can be used in Sun Screens, Moisturisers, Powdered Make-up, Lip and Baby products and virtually any Skin Treatment product. It is also compatible with low pH systems.
Percentages of Microfine Titanium Dioxide to add to products to
give them varying SPFs:
| % | Sun Protection Factor (SPF) |
| 1% | 1.5–2 |
| 5% | 10 |
| 10% | 15–20 |
The surface of Microfine Titanium Dioxide is modified to render it extremely hydrophobic, making it a Fat Stage ingredient. In products you add the Titanium Dioxide to the Fat Stage (without Cetyl Alcohol and VE) when it is over 75°C. Whisk it into the heated Oils vigorously. You can also use an electric blender. Then add the Cetyl Alcohol and VE. Make sure that everything is melted and over 75°C. The better the Titanium Dioxide is dispersed in the product, the higher the SPF. It is therefore important to use an electric blender during the whisking process.
Natural Fruit AHA
INCI: Aqua & Extracts of Vaccinium myrtillus, Saccharum officinarum (Sugar
Cane), Acer saccharinum (Sugar Maple), Citrus aurantium dulcis (Orange) Fruit,
Citrus medica limonum (Lemon). (N)
This item is better and less expensive than our previous AHA product.
Characteristics - Natural source of AHAs from botanical extracts; including 12 – 17% Glycolic Acid. Maximum efficacy with minimum irritancy; 55% active at a pH ~ 4.0; Clear solution, low odourUses - Recommended use levels 5.0 -- 15.0%; Safely exfoliates
dead skin cells; Stimulates skin cell renewal
NB This product can replace Lactic acid in products with preservative
K. Add this to your recipes in the third stage or under 40°C. Never
use around the eyes. Do a skin sensitivity test on a patch of skin
if you are a first time user of any AHA product.
Natural Fruit AHA is a concentrated blend of five botanical extracts: bilberry, sugar cane, sugar maple, orange, and lemon. These extracts contain several naturally occurring alpha hydroxy acids. Alpha hydroxy acids have been shown to promote smoother, younger looking skin by increasing the rate of cell renewal.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) have been used in skin care for
many years. At first, they were used mainly by dermatologists as skin
peeling and moisturising agents. It is only recently that cosmetic
companies have discovered AHAs and their almost miraculous activity.
Since that discovery, many companies have introduced AHA products to
their
skin care lines.
Natural Fruit AHA is produced by taking several species of plants and running them through an exhaustive extraction process, which reduces colour, odour, and concentrates the active principles. The extracts are blended at the following percentages:
Bilberry 57%, Sugar Cane 24%, Sugar Maple 3%, Orange 8%, Lemon 8%
Once blended, the extracts are concentrated by vacuum distillation until a specified concentration of actives is achieved. The product is then filtered to eliminate any particulate matter. Since Natural Fruit AHA is a natural product it will contain a wide variety of residual natural substances, such as cellulose, carbohydrates, proteins, water soluble vitamins and minerals. When the process is complete, the material contains the following concentrations of alpha hydroxy acids:
Lactic Acid 28-32%, Glycolic Acid 12-17%, Citric Acid 2-6%, Malic Acid 1% max, Tartaric Acid 1% max
The primary action of AHAs lies in their keratolytic ability - they weaken bonds that hold dead skin cells together. When these bonds are weakened, the dead cells can be shed from the surface of the skin, resulting in skin that appears fresher, smoother, and younger. Although the keratolytic activity of AHAs is very important, it is also interesting to note that many AHAs function as intermediates in several key metabolic pathways. Glycolysis, a process which involves the oxidation of glucose to pyruvic acid, is a key pathway of the cellular energy process. Hydrolysis of pyruvic acid leads to the formation of lactic acid.
Moisturising
Lactic acid is a highly effective moisturiser. In studies, it has
been shown to increase the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans. Glycolic
acid exhibits the most keratolytic ability of any of the AHAs. It is
glycolic acid that is responsible for the immediate skin softening
effect felt by consumers when they first use an AHA product. Citric
acid, when topically
applied, stimulates collagen synthesis. Both tartaric and malic acid
boost skin elasticity. To combine all of these AHAs results in a truly
multifunctional material.
Cell Renewal
The debate over natural versus synthetic AHAs has raged for several
years. With the advent of Natural Fruit AHA, it seems that we have
combined natural purity with excellent activity. Walter Smith of Walter
Smith Consultants has published a study showing the therapeutic indices
of synthetic and natural AHAs. Basically, the therapeutic index is
the
ratio of stimulation to irritation. AHAs, since they are acids, have
a potential to be irritating to the skin. However, their irritation
potential is coupled with the ability to stimulate cell renewal. The
results show that the activity of Natural Fruit AHA surpasses the activity
of the synthetic lactic and glycolic acids. In Natural Fruit AHA, they
have maximised the ability to stimulate cell renewal, while minimising
the potential for irritation.
Tests show that at a 10% dilution, Natural Fruit AHA produced a 34% increase in cell renewal when compared to the untreated control site. Accordingly, there was a 143% increase in the number of squames generated. Evaluated at 4% in a commercial cream, Natural Fruit AHA increased cell turnover by 20% relative to the control formulation.
Olive Leaf (Organic)
INCI: Olea europaea (ORG N)
Produce of Spain. Olive Leaf has been used by therapists as a tonic for a variety of ailments including the common cold, arthritis and eczema. The important chemical compound found in Olive Leaf, is known as Oleuropein, which appears to protect the olive tree against pests and disease.
Oleuropein was discovered at the beginning of the 20th Century and studies have since shown that it has a number of health benefits including antiviral, antibacterial and antifungal properties as well as having a blood pressure-lowering effect, some anti-inflammatory attributes and it can also boost the immune system. It is often used by herbal practitioners to treat people with cardiovascular complaints.
Olive leaves are also a powerful antioxidant and contain as much as five times the antioxidant capability of Vitamin C, twice as much as Green Tea and Grape Seed Extracts, and is even more powerful than Vitamin E, according to the results of studies released in 2005 by ACCMER (Australian Centre for Complementary Medicine Education & Research).
Increasingly, Extract of Olive Leaf is being added to cosmetic products due to its ability to inhibit bacterial infection and for the soothing effect it can have on the skin, for example, Johnson’s baby care products and Simply Organic hair and soap products contain it.
You can use the leaves for Herbal Teas or as Decoctions in products.
Boil the leaves for 10 minutes and then let them infuse for another
10
minutes. Strain and use.
Phytokeratin
INCI Name: Hydrolysed corn and wheat protein (NB)
Phytokeratin is a composite product made by blending free amino acids from plants in the same proportions as they are found in the popular human hair amino acid products. Phytokeratin will augment the free amino acids naturally present in the sebum and in the hair. It has been thought that the free amino acids naturally present in the hair, play an important role in maintaining the moisture balance of the hair, which help to keep it moist and supple.
Phytokeratin's low molecular weight can enable it to penetrate into the hair, helping to improve its healthy appearance and provide moisturisation. Phytokeratin will not coat the hair in the same way as the commonly used proteins and polypeptides.
Phytokeratin’s benefits to Hair:Keratin amino acids represent the natural way to add the free consumer amino acids essential for the healthy appearance of keratinaceous substrates such as hair, skin and nails. Consumers are only now becoming aware that the hair is composed of protein known as keratin and they can now understand the importance of using this basic building block to rebuild and condition the hair.
Note: Most of the Hair and Nail products found in Hair and Beauty Salons contain keratin sourced from slaughterhouse by-products such as pig hair.
Dosage: Use 5-10% in the third stage of making the product and reduce the water accordingly.
Pomegranate Extract
INCI: Glycerine, Punica granatum
Appearance: Clear, pink liquid; soluble in water-based products.
Historic Use:
Pomegranate juice makes an excellent external astringent for oily
skin. It has also been used as a body dye. The pomegranate grows
on the Mediterranean shores, Persia, China, and other countries
of Asia, and has been naturalised in the West. The rose-coloured,
juicy, acid pulp is edible, and is very useful for feverish patients.
The rind of the fruit is astringent and has been used for arresting
chronic mucous discharge, passive haemorrhages, night sweats, and
diarrhoea. Pomegranate is one of the oldest of drugs. Pomegranate
is also a source of Citric Acid.
Pomegranate Extract
Pomegranate Extract is a by-product of the juice extraction process.
It contains mainly EllagicAcid, which is a polyphenols antioxidant
found in fruits and berries. The highest Ellagic Acid content is
found in raspberries, strawberries and pomegranates.
Ellagic Acid
Ellagic Acid has many health benefits, for example, it is a powerful
scavenger of free radicals, and extremely effective in increasing
the body’s own built-in antioxidant, glutathione, which in
turn helps protect the DNA in cells from free radical damage. Polyphenols,
such as Ellagic acid, also inhibit the formation of harmful enzymes
that cause cells to grow out of control. This is important in terms
of cancer prevention because out-of-control cell division is a
hallmark of cancer. By inhibiting specific enzymes, Ellagic acid
and other polyphenols regulate cell turnover and give the cell
time to divide normally and form completely. Ellagic acid is also
thought to strengthen the cell membrane, making it less susceptible
to free radical damage and preventing water loss from the cell.
Sun Protection
Intrigued by the powerful benefits of Pomegranate Extract, Dr Murad
(Assistant Clinical Professor of Dermatology at the University
of California), theorised that it could play a significant role
in protecting the skin from all types of environmental damage,
specifically ultraviolet rays. To prove this theory, he initiated
an independent pilot study to determine the effect of Pomegranate
Extract in improving the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of Sun Screens.
The test that he did showed that the SPF protection of regular Sun Screen increased 22.7% to 28.8% with both Sun Screens containing Pomegranate Extract. The oral intake of Pomegranate Extract appeared to increase SPF protection of regular Sun Screen by 14.4% to 22.7%.
The protective and healing properties of the pomegranate are extremely important today, as the rate of skin cancer is increasing faster than any other cancer among Western countries. Applying Sun Screen alone isn’t enough. The challenge is to teach our clients to apply enough and re-apply to cover all areas of the skin from head to toe. Also, to teach them that the SPF of a formula doesn’t tell the entire story.
Aromantic Raw Materials for effective Sun Screens:
Uses for Skin and Body Care products
The Extract of Pomegranate can be used in Sun products, Shampoos,
Creams, Lotions, Toners, Gels, Moisturisers and Bath Care products.
Recommended use 3-6%.
Final word on Pomegranate Extract...
I have to say that it is possible to get cheaper Pomegranate Extracts.
Quite a few of them contain Kathon CG, a very nasty Preservative.
This Extract contains no preservatives at all and it is extracted
into Glycerine rather than Propylene Glycol, unlike many other
Extracts. When using this raw material you can also replace
Glycerine or other Moisturisers in your recipes.
Preservative 12
INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin (NI)
We are happy to introduce this very new Preservative that we have had challenge-tested and have found it works very well for people with sensitive skin. People who have reacted before to Potassium Sorbate in Preservative K seem to tolerate this new Preservative. The good thing is that you don’t need to think about the pH reduction and can use it up to a pH of 12. As in Preservative K, this Preservative also contains phenoxyethanol but the producers have broken new ground here.
An innovative multi-functional additive enhances the efficacy of phenoxyethanol. The addition of ethylhexylglycerin affects the interfacial tension at the cell membrane of microorganisms, improving the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol. Preservative 12 reduces the contact angle of water significantly. The wetting of surfaces is improved. With ethylhexylglycerin the contact of phenoxyethanol with the cell membrane of microorganisms can also be optimised. The antimicrobial efficacy of phenoxyethanol is therefore improved.
About using Preservative 12
Preservative K is now accepted by the Soil Association as part of an organic cosmetic product. This new Preservative 12 is still not certified but personally, I think that should be easier to certify than Preservative K because it is more natural.
At Aromantic we’ve started using Preservative 12 in our non-Detergent based products.
PseudocollagenPseudocollagen, an ideal substitute for animal based collagen, is extracted from brewer’s yeast, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, using a special controlled process. Offering deep hydration and moisture binding, Pseudocollagen imparts greater elasticity, more resilience, and a youthful look and feel to the skin and provides extra body and shine to hair. Pseudocollagen is the name that has been given to this cellular extract consisting of a moisturising complex of sugars and proteins. This complex is responsible for providing rigidity and shape inside the cell in a similar way to sugar-protein complexes in the dermis. Pseudocollagen is a true moisturising glycoprotein (sugar-protein complex) taken from living cells. Aromantic is committed to using proteins that are derived from plants and other non-animal sources, such as yeast.
In order to appreciate the potential importance of Pseudocollagen to cosmetic formulators, an understanding of the role of soluble Collagen is required. Soluble Collagen provides an important function in the skin matrix, not only for its structural properties, but also for its ability to help hold moisture in the dermis. Collagen fibrils provide the rigid dermal framework around which the moisture binding proteoglycan structure is woven. Elastin fibrils supply the whole structure due to their elasticity. The appearance of the skin is directly proportional to its ability to bind water. Upon aging, the collagen and elastin content in connective tissue reduces with an accompanying decrease in ability to retain moisture. The skin becomes thinner, takes on an aged appearance and often develops wrinkles.
Pseudocollagen, like soluble collagen, affords excellent moisturising and conditioning properties, giving skin a more supple, healthy appearance when used in Creams and Lotions. Can also be added to Hair Care products for adding body and shin.. To use in your products, pour 0.5%-10% into your products while the product is under 40ºC.
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Rosemary & Sage
Ultra Natural Antioxidants (CO2 Extracts)
INCI: name Rosmarinus officinalis L (and) Salvia officinalis L (N)
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis L) and Sage (Salvia officinalis L) leaves are well known for the Essential Oils derived from them, which are used in Oral Hygiene products, Bath Oils and Massage preparations. However, they are also a source of highly active Antioxidants belonging to the group of diterpene phenols, which are contained in both plants. Rosemary and Sage Ultra Natural Antioxidants can be extracted by the very efficient supercritical CO2 fluid extraction method. This is the type that Aromantic stock. Rosemary and Sage CO2 Extract is a new generation antioxidant, which meets the consumers’ demand for functional botanical additives.
Antioxidants are important additives in cosmetic formulations for increasing their shelf life. The most noticeable changes caused by oxidation are the loss of fine fragrance, destruction of vitamins and active ingredients, decrease of colour especially of carotenoids and development of rancidity. Sunlight and heat accelerate all of these effects.
Even with improved production methods, modern packaging materials and other techniques to help delay oxidation there is still the need for antioxidants driven by the demand for ever longer shelf lives. In addition, antioxidants can be useful to protect the skin tissue against free radical formation induced by UV-radiation and chemical environmental influences.
The activity of Rosemary and Sage diterpene phenols has been shown to retard the oxidation of lard - a saturated animal fat normally taken as a standard target for activity measurements of Safflower Oil - a highly Unsaturated Seed Oil with 70 % of Linoleic Acid. In all studies, the Rosemary and Sage diterpene phenols have been active in low concentrations and could easily replace synthetic antioxidants.
Usage: Rosemary and Sage Antioxidant CO2 Extract is more stable than Vitamin E for products such as Creams and Vegetable Oils and can be used in water and oil-based products.
To stop your products from going rancid, follow these Dosage guidelines:Siberian Ginseng
Extract
INCI Name: Eleutherococcus Senticosus (N)
Companies have marketed facial and bust lifting creams that give a dramatic skin-tightening effect, offering a temporary return to youthful-looking skin. While it is not a permanent treatment, it offers the user an improvement in their appearance and often, their confidence. Classically, these cosmetic Creams, Lotions and Serums have contained ingredients derived from bovine serum or egg albumen. However, since the transition from animal derived products and the threat of salmonella and mad-cow disease (Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy or BSE), raw material suppliers have been challenged to develop plant derived materials that exhibit the desired tightening and skin smoothing effects.
A raw material derived from the root of Siberian Ginseng (Eleutherococcus senticosus) is a new plant-based product to meet this challenge. Siberian Ginseng is not a 'true' Ginseng as it is only remotely related to the 'true' Ginsengs (such as the well-known Panax Ginseng). However, it is commonly regarded as such for its similar adaptogenic properties. Adaptogenic herbs help the body adapt to stress from both internal and external sources. They function to raise resistance to physical, chemical or biological stresses and boost cell recovery, thereby normalising the body's physiological state.
Rich in complex polysaccharides, Siberian Ginseng has frequently been sited as an immune stimulator used to fight infection of the skin and lungs and as a supplement. Siberian Ginseng Extract is a naturally derived, skin-tightening ingredient that can help to physically 'lift' sagging skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is also used for Firming Eye Gels and in Skin-firming Serums and Décolletage Creams. Dosage 5 - 10%.
Siberian Ginseng Extract is a 25% active, aqueous extract consisting
primarily of the complex polysaccharides and associated glycoproteins
from the root Eleutherococcus senticosus. When applied to the skin
in a cosmetic vehicle, these compounds will form an elegant film on
the skin that will tighten and smooth the treated skin immediately.
This perceivable phenomenon is due to physical changes in the polymer
structure of the polysaccharides as they dry on the skin. This gentle
sensation of smooth skin will last for hours without flaking or leaving
the skin feeling overly tight. Best of all, the use of Siberian Ginseng
Extract is totally safe and non-invasive.
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Sea Buckthorn CO2
Extract
INCI NAME: Hippophae rhamnoides (N)
New promising lipids
Sea Buckthorn is a hardy bush often reaching 2–4 m in height in natural habitats, bearing delicious yellow-orange berries, referred to as “Siberian pineapple” in Russia, because of its taste and juiciness. Six species have been described; of which Hippophae rhamnoidesis isthe major one. The natural habitat of Sea Buckthorn extends widely in the mountainous and coastal areas of China, Mongolia, Russia, most parts of Northern Europe, and South America. It is a unique and valuable plant currently cultivated in various parts of the world, including Canada. Tibetans started using Sea Buckthorn more than one thousand years ago, and hundreds of Asian traditional recipes have been developed and used through many generations for its nutritional and medicinal properties. Sea Buckthorn berries contain nutrients and Vitamins in their Seeds, Pulp and Juice. These nutrients include vitamins A, K, E, C, B1, B2, Folic Acid, Essential Fatty Acids, Lipids, Amino Acids, and Minerals. Studies conducted in 20th century confirm numerous beneficial characteristics of Sea Buckthorn. The berries appear to be an unsurpassed natural source of vitamins A and several other carotenes, vitamin E and several other tocopherols, and flavonoids. Sea Buckthorn berries are second only to Rosehips and Acerola in vitamin C content.
There are two sources of Oil in Sea Buckthorn berries: the Seed which contains 10%–15% Oil and the Pulpy fruit parts surrounding the seed, which contains 29%–48% Oil. The Seed Oils are highly unsaturated with up to 73% or more of the Fatty acids making up the Oil being Linoleic or Linolenic. Pulp Oil is more saturated with about. The difference between Seed and Pulp Oil seems to lie in the relatively high content (14%–50%) of Saturated Palmitic Fatty Acids and 38% of the Fatty Acids being Palmitoleic Acid in the Pulp Oil and the relatively high proportion of Polyunsaturated Linoleic and Linolenic Fatty Acids (up to 73% or more) in the Seed Oil.
For cosmetic application, it is essential to only use true and genuine Oils, which are totally composed of Sea Buckthorn Lipids, and not the Sea Buckthorn Macerated Oils, which are also on the market. Since cold pressing of Sea Buckthorn Lipids is difficult or impossible due to the low Oil content, the Oil must be separated by extraction procedures, supercritical CO2 fluid extraction being the method of choice for pure and high-grade Oils.
The high concentration of Palmitoleic Fatty Acid in the Pulp Oil:new interesting ingredients for Skin Care cosmetics. They can be applied individually e.g. putting Pulp Oil in Before and After Sun cosmetics or combined together in high-grade cosmetic products. However, the Pulp Oil is of greater interest because of the high content of Palmitoleic Acid, Tocopherols, Carotenoids and Sterols.
Sea Buckthorn has shown to have a wide range of beneficial health effects, namely:Neither the Pulp nor Seed Extract contain:
Sea Buckthorn Pulp CO2 Extract, which is extracted from the pulp of the Sea buckthorn berries, is a clear to turbid red colour and 1kg of the Pulp Extract is equivalent to 8 - 14kg of the raw material.
Sea
Buckthorn Seed CO2 Extract, which is extracted from the seeds of
the Sea buckthorn berries, is an orange-yellow clear colour and 1kg
of the Seed Extract is equivalent to 13-20kg of the raw material.
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Sea Silk
INCI Name: Hydrolysed vegetable protein (NK)
Protective and moisturising film forming marine vegetable protein
for hair and skin care. Soothing on the scalp and especially good
for sensitive skin. Recommended use 2 - 3 %
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Skin Lightener
INCI: Aqua, Glycerine, Extracts of Malva sylvestris, Mentha piperita, Primula
veris, Alchemilla vulgaris, Veronica officinalis, Melissa officinalis, Achillea
millefolium.
A fully natural plant derivative and preservative-free Skin Lightener. It has a significant skin lightening effect at 5% and activity to reduce the colour and size of age spots.
Up to 5% of the liquid product is added to your formulations under 60°C. You can add it to a Cream in Stage 3. We also recommend the use of our Vitamin C, which enhances the effect of the Skin Lightener. Use up to 10% Vitamin C.
Squalane
INCI Name: Squalane (N)
Squalane is derived from Olive Oil and is absorbed quickly by the skin. It is well proven that Squalane increases the spreadability of Vegetable Oils and Fats on the skin. It is colourless, transparent and is fragrance free. The substance Squalane constitutes around 10% of our skin fat. It is also found in the livers of sharks that are found in deep ocean waters and studies have shown that it keeps the oils in the liver in a liquid state down to a temperature of -38°C.
The vegetable-based Squalane has the same qualities. It is therefore very effective in Winter Protection Creams, Lotions and Lip Balms and can also be added to Massage and Facial Oils. Squalane can be used instead of silicones, which is added to the Skin and Hair products for softening effects and water-repellent properties. It makes the skin supple, even at low temperatures acting as a barrier, while allowing the skin to breathe. It also increases the spreadability of other Vegetable Oils. Can be heated up to 80ºC, or simply added cold. It is stable and does not go rancid with high temperatures or light.
It is used in all cosmetic products between 3 - 15%. In Shampoos and Conditioners, add 2 - 5% after Stage 3 (35°C - 40°C. It is good for Sun products as it is absorbed quickly into the skin, is not oily, and can withstand high temperatures.
Vitamin A
INCI Name: Retinol palmitate (NI)
This Vitamin plays an important role in the functioning of the eyes and the making of new skin and mucous membranes. It prevents infections in the mucous membranes (respiratory). This Vitamin nourishes the skin, counteracts inflammations and protects cell membranes and other structures within the cells from the damage caused by free radicals and in this way helps to prevent skin disorders. Vitamin A occurs naturally in liver, Fish Oils and egg yolk (primarily as Retinol).
Vitamin A used in Cosmetics is produced synthetically. Natural compounds can be used e.g. those found in Beta Carotene or Essential Oils. These result in a Vitamin A Acid (Retinoic Acid) which is very strong and active. This is stabilised by mixing with organic acids such as Acetic Acid to produce Retinol Acetate, or Palmitic Acid to produce Retinol Palmitate. Retinol Palmitate is a yellowish, thick, liquid Oil which becomes very thick at temperatures below 15ºC. It contains 1.000.000 IU per ml. Dosage should be in the ratio of 0.1-1% (maximum), i.e. 0.1-1ml per 100ml finished product.
Retinol Palmitate is absorbed by the skin and is used in Skin Care products for:
It has also been known for many years that Vitamin A and its derivatives have a beneficial effect on dry, scaly skin. Vitamin A increases the rate of mitosis and cell turnover causing the dry skin to be replaced with younger, smoother skin. Vitamin A in Skin Care can also reduce wrinkle formation and stimulate collagen formation.
Testing has now shown that Vitamin A can also be used to treat flaky scalp conditions. At the beginning of a six-week test on human volunteers, the effect on scalp scaling of Vitamin A Palmitate in a Leave-on Conditioner was considered comparable to a placebo conditioner. At the end of the period the hair and scalp was clinically assessed. The results showed that “The use of Vitamin A Palmitate in a Leave-on Conditioner greatly improved scalp scaling compared to placebo”.Vitamin C
INCI Name: Aocorbyl Phosphate (NI)
Vitamin C has been of interest in cosmetics for many years because of its known benefits,. However ascorbic acid (vitamin C) has been largely underused because of its instability to oxidation, usually resulting in a brown discoloration in products in which it is used.
'New-C' is a new stable vitamin C derivative that overcomes the problems normally associated when using ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations. It is supplied as a white powder which is readily soluble in water and is table in aqueous solution at pH6.5 and above. Recommended use levels are 1% to 10% depending on the intended application. Vitamin C is essential for the formation of collagen. Insufficient vitamin C in the diet results in an inability to add hydroxyl groups to growing collagen fibres.
In addition, the skin is the first line of defence against many environmental assaults. It is here that Vitamin C also serves as an antioxidant by scavenging free radicals. These are highly reactive chemical species that are generated in cells and tissues by sunlight, tobacco smoke and also many seemingly normal metabolic processes that involve oxygen from the atmosphere. These scavenging reactions deplete the level of Vitamin C and so it makes sense to apply it topically to those areas where it can boost needed antioxidant protection.
It can be used by dissolving 1-2% in cold water during the Third Stage of cream production or up to 10% in skin lightening cream.
Vitamin C Skin Care Benefits:
Application Areas:
Vitamin E - Natural
INCI: Tocopherol acetate, Glycine Soya Oil, Helianthuus Annuus Seed Oil (N)
Replaces our previous Natural Vitamin E Oil.
GMO-free, food grade Oil, which is approved for use in organic products by the Soil Association. Extracted from Soya and Sunflower seeds, this Vitamin E is cheaper than our previous Natural Vitamin E Oil, which was extracted only from Sunflower Seeds. Vitamin E is a classic antioxidant, which protects against the destruction of the connective tissue caused by free radicals. Natural Vitamin E does not significantly activate itself in the product, so won't help to prevent your product from going rancid but it does activate itself when coming into contact with the skin, working as an antioxidant. From our experience of working with Vitamins on the skin, we believe that the Natural Vitamin E has better healing properties than the Simulated Vitamin E. Contains 1250 IU per 1g. Add while the product is less than 40°C.
Vitamin K
INCI Name: Phytonadione Gum Acacia, Sucrose (NI)
A Natural treatment for thread veins, bruising & dark circles.
As people age, the blood capillaries become more easily damaged and the normal fat pad that protects the blood vessels on the arms and hands becomes depleted. As a result, broken blood vessels are more likely, leading to the appearance of bruising. Elderly people may also be receiving medication that thins the blood which makes bruising easier.
Vitamin K is a pro-clotting agent that aids in balancing the clotting reaction in blood, and Vitamin K creams have previously been described by dermatologists and surgeons to relieve the signs of post-operative skin trauma. Vitamin K Creams are now widely available in the cosmetics market and claim to be able to reduce the appearance of spider veins, thread veins, facial redness, bruising and under-eye circles.
Aromantic Ltd is a company registered in Scotland, U.K. Company
No. SC299277. To visit our link partners click here Aromantic Information Page: Raw materials information
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