Natural skin care products can be made cheaply and effectively using basic kitchen equipment and can be tailored to specific skin conditions. We show you how.

How to Make Your Own Natural Skin Care Products

NOTE: To read about some of the dangers of commercial skin care and cosmetic products click here.

Rather than buying your own ready made Natural Skin Care products you can now make your own, tailored for your own or your client's individual needs. With suitable raw materials and knowledge you can easily make these Natural Skin Care products in your own kitchen. You can therefore produce high quality natural skin care products with the best ingredients. Making your own natural skin care products is fast, fun and it's also a good extra source of income.

Although there are indeed some good Natural Skin Care products in the market place, the knowledge of how to tailor them to your own or your clients' individual needs is quite new.

German producers such as Weleda and Dr Hauschka make some excellent natural skin care products. However it is not in their interests to reveal to you their recipes and ingredients. I am now conducting Educational Courses throughout the UK and also in the US, teaching others the secrets of the cosmetic and skin care industry.

The expression 'Natural Skin Care' or 'Organic Skin Care products' needs to be more clearly understood. There is not an effective Natural Emulsifier, which can be used to make Creams. They can come from natural origin such as Palm Oil and Coconut Oil but they need to undergo a chemical process before they can be used as a Detergent in Natural Skin Care products. There are also no Natural Preservatives that really work safely with water-based 'Natural Skin Care products. Preservative K and 12 and Sodium Benzoate are therefore used instead. Tea Tree Essential Oil can be used but high doses are required (at least 2%). The strong and distinctive qualities of Tea Tree Oil inhibit its use in this way.

Emulsifiers

As an irony for vegetarians, most Emulsifiers which are not vegetable based are produced from pig fats. So even if you avoid eating pig fat, you will absorb it from cosmetics. The only way to avoid this is to make the Creams yourself.

There are no officially qualified organic Emulsifiers in the market so to claim Natural Skin Care products are 100% organic is misleading. There are ingredients that come close but are still not organic. The true picture is much more complex and requires a good understanding of raw materials. Some raw materials that are currently used in commercial skin care products and cosmetics need to be avoided.

To make a Cream or Lotion it is necessary to use an Emulsifier. The best ones are derived from Coconut Oil and Palm Kernel Oil. They are safe to work with and are even used in the food industry. VE and MF emulsifiers are used as emulsifiers in the production of vegan ice cream in Denmark. They can be eaten and are very safe to use.

There are two Emulsifiers used in popular products, which can be harmful. The first is Borax (INCI name Sodium Borate). Research in Denmark and Sweden has shown this substance to be carcinogenic. It is forbidden to use these ingredients on children in Denmark, as it is known to cause anaemia. Borax is easy to use and helps to bond fats with water - but extended use of products containing Borax will dry out the skin, making it brittle. According to Danish medical reports, Borax can penetrate the skin, cause powerful irritation and can even cause cancer! Studies of Swedish steelworkers who handle large quantities of Borax would seem to corroborate this fact. It should not be used in Skin Care products.

Another Emulsifier to avoid is Triethanolamine. It is produced within the petroleum industry and has been used for several decades (and continues to be used) within the cosmetics industry to support emulsification. This chemical is severely irritating for the eyes and skin. It penetrates the skin and can cause liver damage. In addition to this, when combined with nitrate ions - normally found in drinking water and many meat products - it produces a carcinogenic substance, Nitrosamine. It should never be used in Skin Care products but is regrettably, common in the UK.

Fats, Oils & Waxes

These are another important ingredient in the manufacture of Skin, Hair and Body Care products such as soaps and detergents. Olive Oil is used in the Mediterranean, Shea Butter in West Africa and Jojoba Oil by the native Americans. However in America a gentleman called Chesborough discovered that the grease used around the drills in Texas could be used in Skin Care. Thus the artificial product now known as Vaseline was manufactured. Vaseline cannot be absorbed by healthy skin and creates a thin film on the surface of the skin, blocking the pores and preventing the skin from functioning normally. Vaseline does not contain any vitamins and disturbs or even stops the skin from being able to absorb fat-soluble vitamins.

Vaseline is detrimental to the skin with long-term use. Mineral Oils appear to moisturise the skin but in reality they suppress its normal, healthy functioning. The skin then becomes 'dependent' on constant applications of mineral oil which, in turn, result in a deterioration of the skin's character and ability to keep itself healthy. It clogs the pores, is hard to remove and is a bit like having cling film wrapped around your body.

Together with other Emulsifiers, Beeswax can be used as a help emulsifier. Many people call this a Cream but it is actually an ointment. Beeswax can clog the pores and can easily separate in a Cream. This is the main reason why it is not used commercially. Even though it’s not good to use Beeswax on the face, it is excellent for use in protective and softening products for the lips, hands and feet.

Vegetable Oil, Fats and Waxes are the time tested and safer option. They are readily absorbed by the skin and are used to nourish (give energy to) the skin and body. They are needed to create new cells and for other important processes in the body. Most Vegetable Oils contain vitamins, which are necessary for the skin (such as pro A, D and E). They are therefore good for the skin and can even stimulate it to function better and create better circulation. They soften the skin and make it pliable, helping it to retain its own moisture more effectively.

Vegetable Oil, Fats and Waxes will even help resolve some of the simpler skin problems, e.g. irritation of the skin caused by soaps, cosmetics, clothes or deficiencies in fats or vitamins in the skin. Vegetable Oils and fats consist of Glycerine, Fatty Acids, fat soluble vitamins (where applicable) and other fat soluble ingredients. The Fatty Acids can also be subdivided into three categories:

Saturated Fatty Acids

These are solid at room temperature (e.g. Stearic Acid) and become a thick liquid inside our bodies. These Fatty Acids are the ones which are supposed to be responsible for vascular and heart disease when consumed in large quantities. They are absorbed slowly by the skin and are added to give massage and skin Oils more lubrication. In face Oils they make the skin's own Oils even oilier. With oily skin the presence of these Fatty Acids will mean that the pores become more easily blocked which will cause them to enlarge. Never use too much on skin with large pores or oily skin. These Fatty Acids keep well and do not go rancid so quickly. Saturated fatty acids are found primarily in animal fats such as Lard and Tallow but they are also found in Coconut Butter, Cocoa Butter and Shea Butter.

Mono-unsaturated Fatty Acids (also called Omega 9)

These are liquid at room temperature. The most common Monounsaturated Fatty Acids are those Oleic Acids found in most Oils but especially in Jojoba Oil and Olive Oil. Oleic Acids keep well and give good lubrication.

Duo (Omega 6) and Polyunsaturated (Omega 3) Fatty Acids

Amongst these we find Linoleic (Duo-) and Linolenic Acid (Poly); Linolenic Acid is the one most disposed to becoming rancid. They are thin liquids which are quickly absorbed by the skin. They are 'drier' than the other Fatty Acids. Because they have a tendency to go rancid easily they often need added Vitamin E (as an anti-oxidant). Duo- and Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids combine with the fats and Oils in the skin to make them thinner and help in reducing the size of pores. Therefore they are very important to use for oily skin and skin with large pores. They act like vitamins for the skin. The most important Fatty Acids are the Essential ones, which in some countries are known as Vitamin F.

Mixing the different Vegetable Oils can create a blend which is better suited to the particular purpose for which it is intended than the simple use of one or other Oil. Get to know the different Oils and their characteristics. Test them on your own skin to learn how they feel and how quickly they are absorbed by the skin. Then try making your own blends, test them in the crook of your arm first to test for any possible allergic reaction and then use on those body parts you have made them for. Store your Vegetable Oils in the fridge. Make up small quantities of your blends so they don't have to stand for too long before being used. Store these at room temperature. Always add a little Vitamin E (0.5%) to Oil Blends which contain a lot of Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids.

The following Natural Skin Care products can be easily made in your own kitchen using ordinary kitchen equipment:

Calendula Ointment

1. Melt 15g Beeswax and 45ml of Vegetable Oil of your choice in a double boiler (a saucepan immersed in a larger saucepan of water).
2. Remove the saucepan from the double-boiler and then add another 35ml of Vegetable Oil to the mixture.
3. To this add 3g of Calendula CO2 Extract * and 25 drops of Essential Oils of your choice.
4. Pour into jars and label
   
   *Alternatively you can soak Calendula Flowers in Olive Oil for 2 - 3 weeks then strain the Oil for use in the Recipe.

Baby Massage Oils

Baby skin needs gentle and safe Fats and Oils such as those used for very sensitive skin. We have three classic Oils for this purpose - Apricot Kernel Oil, Peach Kernel Oil and Rosehip Oil. Always add a little Vitamin E Oil in your Massage Oil as its good for the skin and will help prevent the Oil from going rancid.

Baby Massage Oil No 1 (Makes 100ml)

• 30ml Apricot Kernel Oil or Peach Kernel Oil
• 30ml Olive Oil (Virgin)
• 39ml Thistle (Safflower) Oil
• 1g Vitamin E Oil

Method:

• Mix Oils together in a measuring jug or similar.
• Add a few drops of Essential Oils* and mix together, bottle and label.

*Recommended Essential Oils for babies are:  Mandarin and Roman Chamomile.

Baby Massage Oil No 2 (Without the use of Kernel Oils. Makes 100ml.)

• 40ml Olive Oil (Virgin)
• 58ml Evening Primrose Oil
  
• 2g Vitamin E Oil

Method:

Simply mix Oils together in a measuring jug or similar, bottle and label

Luxury Massage Oil

• 50ml Organic Apricot Kernel Oil
• 45ml Organic Rosehip Oil
• 5g Vitamin E Oil

Method:

1. Simply mix Oils together in a measuring jug or similar.
2. Add a few drops of your favourite Essential Oil/s and mix together, bottle and label.

Liquid Soap & Shampoo Base Recipes

These recipes make 1 Litre.

NB: Use 5ml Parabens when you use boiling water and 10ml Parabens when you use a herbal infusion instead of boiling water.

Method for Shampoos:

1) If using a herbal infusion, make a strong one first, as follows: Allow 3-4g herbs per 100ml water. Put in a stainless saucepan, bring to the boil, switch off heat, strain and allow to stand and draw for 20 mins. (Use the maximum amount of Parabens (1%) if you use a herbal infusion.)

2) Measure up the Alpha and Beta in a jug.

3) Measure up the boiling infusion or boiling water and pour it into the Alpha or Beta mixture. Stir it together until it is dissolved in the blend.

4) Measure up the Omega and the Guar Gum. Heat it in a double boiler until it melts together (make sure there is no powder left around the edges of the pot).

5) Pour some of the Detergent and water mixture into the Omega/Guar blend a little at a time and stir. Then pour everything back to the rest of the mixture and stir together in cold water in the sink. Then cool it down.

6) When the mixture has cooled to 30° -25° C, blend in the Essential Oils or other active ingredients. If the Shampoo is too thin, stir in a little sea salt till you get the desired consistency

Tips

Adjustment to Shampoo Method for when you’re making Liquid Hand Soap:

• When making Liquid Soap, dissolve the salt in  boiling water first.
• Then carefully pour the Alpha into the mixture and stir (don't beat) for at least 5 minutes until all of the ingredients are thoroughly mixed together and the soap thickens.

• Use litmus paper to test the mixture before adding Lactic Acid.
• If the pH is within an acceptable range (5.5-6) you will not need to add Lactic Acid.
• If needed, add it at the end before adding Essential Oils.

• It is not advised to use a herbal infusion or decoction in your Shampoo or Liquid Soap as Sodium Benzoate is not a broad-spectrum Preservative.
• In addition it is also best used when storing your Shampoo or Liquid Soap in a bottle with a Pump, so that the product isn’t handled at all (handling increases the risk of contamination of the product).
• Best used for products with a pH value less than 6. If not within that pH range, then follow same procedure for adding Lactic Acid as per Preservative K (above).

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