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Colours used in making Cosmetics and Skin Care Products
It is important to remember that using truly natural colours is not
always possible, as they are very limited in their use as they are only
water-soluble. In addition, they are not light fast, so fade easily. Some
Natural Colours, while they work very well, and are considered a much
safer alternative to the more carcinogenic colours which have been removed
from the list of EU approved Colours, are also derived from animals. An
example of this is Carmine (crushed beetles), which is now an almost ubiquitous
Red Colour used by the cosmetic industry. The only Pearlescent Reds we currently have available are Bordeaux Red, Strawberry Red and
Red Brown.
"I am currently setting up my own business
and have always found it very hard to access a lot of the raw
materials I require especially colour pigments. Discovering Aromantic
has solved this problem."
Sharon Pitman
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So, in short, we stock the most natural colours possible, but have to
stock some synthetic colours too in order for you to have a wide range
of colours for different uses.
Colours for Cosmetics
Colour is both an important and an enjoyable part of making your own
cosmetics. Getting the right colour for the right product is important
’s eye.
Colours suitable for cosmetics can be arranged in three categories: Organic;
Inorganic; and Natural.
Colours are classified as either Organic, or Inorganic, depending on
the chemistry. This should not be confused with the term “Organic”,
which refers to growing methods without the use of artificial pesticides,
etc.
Organic Colours
Organic Colours were originally called coal tar or anilines because they
were derived from coal sources. However, today almost all Organic Colours
are synthetic and are available as either water-soluble, oil-soluble or
insoluble agents in all kinds of shades.
Inorganic Colours
Inorganic, or “non-living”, Colours are composed of insoluble
metallic compounds, which are either derived from natural sources such
as the earth (e.g. China Clay, Carbon Deposits, Iron Oxides (Browns, Blacks,
Reds, etc.), Ultramarines, Chromium Oxide Green, Mica, Titanium Dioxide,
Zinc Oxide, Kaolin Clay, and so forth), and some are then subjected to
high temperatures and sometimes bonded chemically with another element,
such as Titanium Dioxide. Confusingly, the Natural Colours, also known
as mineral pigments, derived from the Earth, are not considered natural
because they are “inorganic” and have been treated or altered
on a molecular level but other suppliers, and we, will call them natural
even though this is not “technically” correct. Inorganic Colours
do not have the same kinds of health risks as Organic Colours. However,
Inorganic Colours are not available in the range of shades that the Organic
Colours offer, and they are not water soluble, which limits their range
of applications.
Natural Colours
Natural Colours are derived or come directly from plant or animal sources,
such as:
Seeds (Annatto); Roots (Turmeric); Carbohydrates (Caramel) ; Leaves and
stems (Henna);
Vegetable (such as Red Cabbage Beetroot juices, and Carrot Oil Extract);
Fruits (Grape juice); Algae (Beta Carotene); Insects (Carmine).
Selecting Aromantic Colours based on your product formulation
Whether Natural Synthetic, or Natural and treated in some way, all of
Aromantic’s colours are deemed safe for use in cosmetics as per
the European Union’s Cosmetic Regulations and all of them have been
used safely for between 20-30 years.
Blue Azulen (INCI name: Matricaria recutita) is a totally natural
Blue Colour extracted from German Chamomile. It is used to add a Transparent
Blue Colour to Soaps.
Aromantic’s Colours for Non-Water Based Products (NWB) should be
used for non-water-based products such as Fizzy Bath Bombs, Bath Salts,
Massage Bars, Bath Melts and other Solid Products. These Colours are based
in Propylene Glycol, which does not contain any water. Suggested dosage
is 3-6 drops per 100ml.
Aromantic’s Colours for Water-based Products (WB) should be used
for Solid Soap, Liquid Soap, and water-based products such as Hair Shampoo
and Foam Bath.
These Colours are based in water. Suggested dosage is 2-6 drops per 100ml.
Note about both NWB and WB Colours:
These Colours are not light sensitive, so will not “bleed”
and discolour your bath or sink. They are synthetic but considered safe
for adding to food products. Only a small amount is needed, as the
Colours are very strong.
Aromantic’s Normal
Pigments are powdered Colours mainly used for
oil-soluble products, which add colour to the skin, such as Mineral Make-up,
Powders and Foundation Creams. We classify some of our Normal Pigments
as natural, and some are naturally derived but may be treated in some
way (See Inorganic Pigments). They are not suitable for water-soluble
products such as Liquid and Solid Soaps as pigments sink to the bottom.
They can also discolour your sink or bath. However, Titanium Dioxide
is a Normal Pigment, which works well for colouring Solid Soaps white,
without discolouring sinks or baths.
Aromantic’s Pearlescent
Pigments are totally natural, inorganic. Although they
are pearlescent in effect, they are not derived from mussels or pearl.
Our suppliers classify some of them as Synthetic because, even though
they are derived from natural sources, they undergo chemical bonding
at high temperatures and so no longer consider them natural. To further
complicate matters, each Colour may contain a totally natural, untreated
Pigment, such as Mica, as well one that has been bonded with an element
at high temperature, e.g. Titanium Dioxide. So, our classification
system, although
“technically incorrect”, will still use N for natural and
the relevant letter following that to show how it has been extracted
or treated. Pearlescent
Pigments are ideal for use in Mineral Make-up,
Lipsticks and Creams.
They also work well for solid
soap and fizzy bath bombs. You can use them for Liquid Soap, but
as with all powdered pigments, they will sink to the bottom if the
consistency is not thick enough. When used in solid
soap, they produce a lovely, semi-transparent effect.
Note about all Colours
Since many factors can affect the stability and activity of Colours
(e.g. Surfactants, pH value, etc.), it is important to bear in mind that
you may get different results with the same amount of a specific Colour
when used in different formulations.
We hope this has helped to clarify things for you. You can also download
a PDF version of the EU
Cosmetic Regulations as well as the 2003
Revisions.
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| Food Colourings
(from supermarkets) |
Good as a
food colour |
Can be used
but fades in the light |
Can be used
but fades in the light |
Can't be
used because of water content |
Can be used
but fades in the light |
Doesn't
function |
Doesn't
function |
| Colours
for Non Water-Based Products (NWB) |
Not allowed
to be used in food |
Good for
Soaps & Bath Melts |
Like all
pigments, they sink to the bottom if viscosity is low |
Best colour
for Fizzy Bath Bombs |
Can be used |
Doesn't
function |
Doesn't
function |
| Colours
for Water-Based Products (WB) |
Is a food
colour but synthetic |
Very good
and easy to use |
Good for
all types of Liquid Soaps, Shampoos, Foam Baths, etc |
Can't be
used because of water content |
Best choice
but colour the salt first |
Doesn't
function |
Doesn't
function |
| Colours
- Pearlescent Colours |
Not allowed
in food (but not poisonous) |
Gives good
and hot colour |
Sinks to
the bottom if viscosity is low |
Good for
Fizzy Bath Bombs |
Can be used |
Made for Mineral
Make-up |
Made for
Lip products |
| Colours
- Normal pigments |
Some colours
can be used - see E numbers |
Can be used
in small amounts in Solid Soaps but can stain baths & sinks |
Sinks to
the bottom if viscosity is low |
Can discolour
baths & sinks |
Can discolour
baths & sinks |
Made for Mineral
Make-up |
Made for
Lip products |
| Titanium
Dioxide |
Can be used
in food |
Makes soap
white |
Sinks to
the bottom if viscosity is low |
OK |
Not necessary |
An important
Colour for Mineral Make-up |
An important
colour for Lip products |
Available Products:
 Order Non Water-Based Colours (NWB)
Order Water-Based Colours (WB)
Order Pearlescent Colours (PC)
Order Normal Pigment Colours
Order White Titanium Oxide
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